Bruges, Belgium

June 25-27:

We made it to Belgium! It was just a short train ride away from Gouda to make it to the Belgian border. We connected through Brussels and out to the city of Bruges on the western side of Belgium.

Belgium is one of the newest countries in Europe. Around the same time as the French Revolution, the Belgian Revolution in 1831 resulted in the southern half of The Netherlands to secede into its own, independent country. The Kingdom of The Netherlands finally recognized its sovereignty in 1839.

The flag of Belgium

Today, the country of Belgium is a fascinating mix of cultures, heritages, and languages. There are 3 national languages: Dutch, French, and German. The people of the capital city of Brussels are pushing to make English an official language as well. As such, most folks (including all school children by the age of 14) typically become at the very least conversational in 4 languages.

The regions of Belgium see different languages used predominantly as well. For example, in the southern regions of Belgium, French dominates public discourse. In the northern half of the country, including where we stayed in Bruges, a Flemish variation of Dutch dominates. We noticed that signs here often showed Dutch, then French, then German, then English. As such, the historic plaques are necessarily huge!

Bruges, Belgium is one of the most historically preserved cities in the country. At one point in the 13th/14th centuries, it was the wealthiest city in Europe! Echoes of that era remain today.

Canal in Bruges
When we first arrived in Bruges. This canal was close to our Airbnb.
Carriage tours through the main parts of the city
Bruges
The streets of Bruges
Minnewaterpark, Bruges
Minnewaterpark, Bruges

Food in Bruges

It was in Bruges that we got our first taste of Belgian food! Because of its history, Belgian food tends to take many forms and come from many different countries. It’s easy to find cuisines from just about any country in Belgium! That being said, Belgian chocolate and Belgian waffles seemed to be some of the most popular snacks.

Belgian chocolate!
Belgian chocolate shop
A great waffle shop in Bruges

The waffles were so sweet, you didn’t need to put syrup on them! They already had large granules of sugar baked in, but we noticed most folks would sometimes spread butter on them and/or add brown sugar to the top of them.

Belgian waffle!
“Deadly delicious” – the most popular type of chocolate at one of our stops
Inside “Deadly delicious” – something like cream cheese, raspberry, almond, and caramel!
“Cacao nibs” – a brick of chocolate with little bits of Cacao added

Belfry of Bruges

One of our favorite stops in Bruges was the Belfry of Bruges. Located in one of the main squares of the city, the belfry was originally the seat of the Bruges government. It got struck by lightning and partially burned down at one point, and they decided to move their official offices into a smaller building. But the belfry has been maintained and open to the public for some time now. It’s famous for its music-box sounding chimes that ring out over the city at all hours of the day.

Belfry of Bruges
View of Bruges from the top of the belfry

After a climb to the top of the belfry, we saw that it was indeed a giant music box that controlled all of the little bells! It’s the largest of its kind in the world.

The “music box” controlling the chimes in the belfry

Going up one level from the “music box”, we got to see the actual bells and chimes that it controlled. It was incredible seeing how it was all made, but quite loud when you’re standing underneath the bells!

Bells in the belfry

Final thoughts

Bruges is an absolutely charming city. We loved feeling like we were stepping back in time to see the older sides of Europe through the well-kept historic buildings. We can’t wait to one day come back!

Haarlem, Holland

June 23:

We decided to take a quick day trip to Haarlem, just west of Amsterdam. It’s a quick €4 15 minute hop from Amsterdam Centraal to Haarlem via a direct train.

Espresso in center-city Haarlem!
Crepes in Haarlem

One of the things that Haarlem is known for is its flowers. The city sits just north of the famed tulip fields in Holland that you may have seen pictures of! Unfortunately, we were told that it was a little too late in the season to check out those fields as most of the flowers had already been harvested. Regardless, we loved walking around Haarlem and seeing the flowers and the flower markets all over the city. It smelled amazing!

Flower markets like this were everywhere
An old church built in the 1600s
Flowers in the city
Flowers in the city
More open-air flower markets

One of our favorite things that we have learned about The Netherlands so far is that the Dutch are ingenious when it comes to land reclamation. Over the past several hundred years, the Dutch have invented ways to extend their land deeper into the sea – and as such, it’s one of the only countries that continues to grow in size. First, they build a dam (or “dyke”) in the ocean or in a bay, and once the powerful ocean is sealed off, they pump the water out of the sealed off area until there’s nothing but land beneath. Historically, they used windmills for this kind of thing – which is one of the reasons why you see so many windmills here!

The reclaimed land is often full of good nutrients and historically has been turned into farming land. Just below-sea-level-farming-land! Fascinating.

An old windmill
A beautiful cathedral in Haarlem
Haarlem city streets
Haarlem city streets
Haarlem city streets

Corrie Ten Boom’s historic home is also in Haarlem. If you’re unfamiliar with the name, Corrie Ten Boom is often considered a hero of the 20th century. She helped a large number of Jews escape from the Nazis during the Holocaust by hiding them in her home shown in the pictures below. The home where this occurred has been turned into a museum about her fascinating life. Unfortunately, the museum was closed when we walked by and we weren’t able to go in. Still, having read her book “The Hiding Place” as a child, I found it to be an honor to even stand near the home where such an extraordinary woman lived.

Corrie Ten Boom’s home (now a museum)
Corrie Ten Boom’s home
Some info on the side of Corrie Ten Boom’s house

Amsterdam, The Netherlands

June 22-23:

Amsterdam (and most of the cities in The Netherlands) is very much a bike-centric city. Bikes, in fact, have the right of way on streets and often pull out in front of cars without even looking – the car has to stop! It’s incredible seeing just how many folks ride bikes here. There are dedicated 2-way bike streets on the side of every normal street, and the bikes even have their own traffic light system at the major intersections.

These little cars are everywhere!

Dam Square

We walked from the train station to one of the main squares called Dam Square. Here, there were monuments, shops, and the hustle and bustle of normal Amsterdam workday life.

Dam Square – one of the main hubs in Amsterdam

When we walked into the square, we saw a man with a large bag of white rice throwing it out for the pigeons. He wasn’t charging at all, you could tell that he was delighted at the fun everybody was having with his little bag of rice. Birds came flocking from all around and stood on his arms and head waiting to get some of the rice. Little children came running to see the birds. He gave the children some rice to feed the birds too. You could tell some children were going to be forever scared by birds after this encounter. Birds were sitting on their heads and arms while the children squealed and cried. One brave little girl did not cry, but instead walked over and picked up one pigeon by one of its wings. It was truly a sight to see!

The man gave us some rice to feed the birds as well. They immediately flew to our arms and heads for the rice. It was so much fun! The feeling was very strange. We couldn’t help but laugh the whole time. We surprisingly did not have any bird poop on us. (We immediately checked!) Definitely a highlight of the day!

Feeding the pigeons in Dam Square
Contracting 84 strains of bird flu

Strolling the City

As we waited for check in to open at our AirBnB, we decided to stroll through the streets of Amsterdam.

Amsterdam is a canal city, similar to the likes of Venice, Italy. There are beautiful bridges crossing each canal as tour boats and delivery barges pass beneath.

Crossing a canal in Amsterdam
City streets
City streets
City streets
City streets
City streets…plus rubber duckies!?

Anne Frank House

One of the more popular tourist destinations here is the Anne Frank House. If you haven’t already, we would highly recommend picking up a copy of her diary. She was a young Jewish girl who hid in a house in Amsterdam during the Nazi occupation of The Netherlands during WW2. Her family was eventually discovered and sent to a concentration camp nearby where she eventually perished. Her story is unique in that she was a wonderful writer at such a young age, but I believe it’s important that we look at her as a symbol of her generation. Although her story was unique, her experience was not. Millions of Jews in this area were sentenced to the same fate, and we use Anne’s story as a way to honor and remember the millions of others.

Our AirBnb was right across the canal from the Anne Frank house, so we hopped in for a tour of the space where Anne and her family hid for 2 years. It was such a powerful experience!

Anne Frank

Amsterdam Food

The food scene in Amsterdam is delicious! The city is known for its French fries which come with a variety of different sauces. Some of the most popular flavors are a variation of Mayonnaise (that to us, tasted like a delicious mix between mayo and ranch), and a peanut satay sauce. A Kroket is also a well-known snack food, almost like an egg roll but deep fried with more gravy inside. Yum.

Kroket
Fries with peanut satay sauce, and a Kroket (often enjoyed with mustard)

Indonesia was once occupied by the Dutch empire as well, and as such, there is a huge amount of Indonesian influence here. We heard some of the best Indonesian food was just around the corner from our AirBnB and had to give it a try!

Indonesian food
Indonesian food
Some tasty candy recommended by our friend! It’s like a whole package of pink Starbursts.
There was a famous Apple pie place close to our AirBnB. It was incredible!
A Bacon sandwich house… what more can you ask for?
Burgers are also extremely popular in Holland. This was one of the best burgers we’ve ever had

Flowers everywhere!

Holland is globally known for their beautiful flowers. In fact, the world’s largest flower auction market sits just south of Amsterdam. You have to look into the Aalsmeer Flower Auction. They have an auction floor that looks something like a stock floor with international auctioneers purchasing flowers as they roll through the room on autonomous carts – flowers from this market get exported all over the world. It’s big business!

The people of Holland take their flowers very seriously as well! Everywhere you look in Amsterdam and beyond, there are beautiful flower markets, flower gardens, and people carrying bouquets of flowers as they ride their bikes.

Flowers in front of Amsterdam homes
Floating flower market (in an Amsterdam canal!)
Floating flower market (in an Amsterdam canal!)

Final Thoughts

Amsterdam has a reputation of being a pretty wild city. From the Red Light Districts to the marijuana legally sold in just about every coffee shop. Despite this (perhaps narrow on my part) perception, the city is a wonderful place to visit. The people are so kind, everybody speaks Dutch as a first language, but English almost flawlessly as a second (or third) language. The canal systems are so impressive, second only to Venice perhaps in their quantity throughout the city. Transportation is a breeze – no need to own a car. We would absolutely return to Amsterdam if given the opportunity, and can’t wait to do so.

A beautiful canal right next to Amsterdam Centraal – the train station we left from.

Farewell Iceland

Iceland is an awesome country – and I mean that literally. It is awe-inspiring.

Despite its status as one of the smallest European countries, traveling its perimeter revealed to us the immensity of its landscape.

It is full of raw, rugged, powerful natural beauty that we have encountered in few other places in the world.

Fire.

Ice.

Roaring waterfalls.

Quiet fields of flowers.

Majestic beaches.

Cliffs with walls of seabirds you may otherwise only ever see in a zoo.

Geothermal beauty everywhere.

The vast majority of Iceland is as it has always been – untouched, wild, beautiful.

I can’t recall ever hearing an American tourist say that they were going to Iceland, unless it was merely a stopover on the way to some other destination. Perhaps when folks think of going to Europe, they think of the larger destinations such as France, United Kingdom, Germany, and Iceland gets overshadowed by their presence. This should not be the case. If you ever get the opportunity to go to Iceland, and you have even one bone in your body that appreciates the great outdoors, you simply must go. There is nothing like Iceland in the rest of the world.

Iceland’s natural beauty has left us awestruck and eager to one day return. And return one day we certainly will. Until then, farewell Iceland.

Black Sand Beach & Iceland’s Biggest Glacier

June 14

Reynisfjara

Our first stop this morning was the black sand beach in Southern Iceland with beautiful jagged rocks jutting out into the sea. The weather was very windy, and very cold! The waves were mesmerizing – some of the biggest waves we have ever seen. The beach was filled with gorgeous smooth black rocks. The sand and rocks are all a pure black color from the volcanic activity on the island.

Black sand beach in southern Iceland

The drive

We’ve observed a few interesting things while driving through the Icelandic countryside. First, there are SO many sheep that are just roaming around, often outside of their pasture fence! But they aren’t very smart animals and will cross the street in front of cars at anytime. We were told when we first picked up our camper van that if we hit one we would have to pay 500 Euros to the sheep farmer for each sheep hit. We haven’t hit one yet thankfully, but have come pretty close!

Another thing that is interesting on the roads are their radar speed signs. There are happy and sad faces on them and it will change to a green happy face if you are driving under the speed limit.

There are also a lot of one lane bridges on the island.

In Reykjavik, there were a ton of “no tractor” signs. We thought this was funny since there didn’t seem to be any farms in the downtown area but clearly the city thought it was a problem and they needed to post a reminder on nearly every street.

Velkomin í Freysnes – Trail to a Glacier

We found this trail on All Trails. The trail was a little hard to find as it was tucked behind a hotel and not well advertised. It was our favorite hike so far! There were fields as far as the eye could see of these gorgeous purple flowers. We got to the top of the trail and it looked over the valley onto the very edge of one of the largest glaciers in Iceland. It was so beautiful!

Beautiful trail walk

Fjallsárlón Glacier

Our next little hike we went on was about 30 minutes down the road from the first. We were driving on the Ring Road and saw a sign for a glacier. We saw on All Trails again that there was a trail behind a restaurant. It was a short and easy hike to an absolutely stunning view of the glacier! While we were there, it was silent enough that from across the lake we heard the glacier give out a deep rumble. We were both mesmerized and terrified at the same time. It’s enormous!

Jökulsá á Breiðamerkursandi

Just a short drive from the Fjallsárlón Glacier was this amazing view of another side of the glacier. As the ice was breaking off the glacier, a canal was pulling the broken pieces out to sea. Birds were flying all around enjoying what appeared to be a bountiful fish meal under the melting ice. We even saw a seal swimming among the icebergs!

Diamond Beach

Right near the canal that was pulling the icebergs out to sea was this beautiful black sand beach. It is called Diamond Beach because it is filled with broken off pieces of the glacier. Graham was determined to touch a part of a glacier and he finally did here!

Camping Höfn

We stopped for the night around midnight. The campground had a beautiful view of a lake.

Yes, this is midnight! This is as dark as it gets in Iceland during the summer months.